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Janitorial Supplies Michigan Tennessee & Wisconsin – Amerisource Industrial Supply

Frequently Asked Hard Floor Care Questions 

Why do we put floor finish on a floor?

Hard floor care has two objectives.  One is to protect the floor surface.  The other is to enhance the appearance of the floor. The key to any floor care program is to keep the floor as clean as possible.  Time spent in cleaning the floor will be time saved in repairing damage done to the floor by dirt. Daily and periodic maintenance of the floor consists of dust mopping, damp mopping, scrubbing, recoating, spray buffing and burnishing. Burnishing is a critical step in keeping your surface in top shape.  Burnishing hardens the finish and smoothes the surface which makes daily cleaning easier. A program of periodic deep scrubbing and recoating will prolong the life of the finish and prevent the more labor intense stripping operation.

 Why do floors with finish on them shine?

The shine on a floor is due to the reflection of light from its smooth surface.  Think of a mirror. In their natural state, floor surfaces are full of microscopic scratches.  These scratches absorb some light and do not reflect the remaining light cleanly.  This results in a dull – less reflective surface.  As a freshly finished floor ages and is not maintained, it also becomes scratched and reflects less and less light – making it appear dull.

What is the difference between Sealer and Finish?

Sealers prepare the floor by providing a better base for the finish.  It is designed to fill scratches and stick to surfaces better than floor finish. Generally speaking you will only need a sealer on a floor that is in worse shape than most floors.   For instance it shows excessive wear or is severely scratched. Most of the floor finishes manufactured today combine the features of Sealer and Finish – generally speaking, it is not necessary to use a Sealer and then a Finish.  There are specialty sealers for specific hard to coat surfaces such as terrazzo and concrete.

 Why are there different kinds of floor finish?

Floor finishes are designed to protect that floor and respond to the type of maintenance that you are performing on the floor. For instance, we are all familiar with the wet floor look that many grocery stores have.  This finish is much different than one you would put down and clean when needed and then eventually strip and replace.

Finishes are generally designed around maintenance programs that consist of little or no maintenance, low speed gloss restoration (buffing with equipment that usually runs 175 rpm), high speed gloss restoration (burnishing with equipment that runs 1000 to 1500 rpm)), and ultra high speed gloss restoration (burnishing with equipment that runs over 1500 rpm).   The key determining factors in selecting a finish is the traffic on the surface, burnishing frequency and type of burnishing equipment used.

The key characteristics of a floor finish are:

1. Hardness – Durability
2. Initial Shine
3. Reparability – Response to burnishing & restoration
4. Difficulty in Stripping

There is a trade off amongst these key factors.  In a perfect world you could get a very hard and durable finish that is easy to restore and strip.  Currently, there is no such finish.  A high traffic floor such as a super market requires a floor finish that can be burnished nightly and can be restored frequently and easily without the finish getting brittle or discolored. A church with relatively less traffic and resources to burnish the floor needs a very hard durable finish that will hold up between infrequent burnishes.

What does the term solids mean – for instance a 25% solids finish?

The term solid refers to the amount of finish that is left on the floor after it has dried.  For instance, in a 25% solids floor finish, 75% of the solution is a carrying solution that allows you to put the finish down and levels the solution but will evaporate as the floor dries.  The solid content of the finish does not indicate the quality or characteristics of the finish. A 25% solids finish has 25% more solids than a 20% solids floor finish.  As a result, the cost of the 25% solids should be approximately 25% higher than a 20% floor finish.

How many coats of floor finish should I put down? 

Understanding that finish is intended to protect the floor and enhance its appearance – the answer is “it depends.”  A floor that will get little or no foot traffic will need less than one that receives considerable foot traffic.  One that experiences harsh chemicals and deicers will need more than one that does not. 

One rule of thumb is that a typical floor should receive 100% coverage.  That means that you should determine the amount of solids that a floor finish contains and divide it into 100.  For instance, if you are using a 20% solids floor finish, you would typically use 5 coats – a 25% finish would be 4 coats, and so on.

In any case, you should always put down enough coats of finish so that you can experience your normal wear and still be able to scrub the floor and have a base of finish to build on – that will save you time and money because you will not need to strip the floor as often.

How much floor finish do I need?

Every finish will have a square foot per gallon coverage rate.  Most finish range from 2000 sq ft per gallon to 3000 sq ft per gallon.  The condition of the floor will affect the amount of coverage.  Worn and porous floors will use more finish than non porous and newer surfaces.  Less finish will penetrate the surface and it will take less coats to get the desired shine.  A general rule of thumb is that you need a minimum of 3 coats on any surface and gloss or shine usually reaches a maximum after 6 coats.  Do not put down more than 3 coats in one day.

What are the different floor maintenance activities?

There are seven typical maintenance activities that are performed but it is important to remember that all of the activities have one thing in common.  Before doing any maintenance to a floor, that floor should be cleaned with a dust mop to remove any loose dirt or grit that could cause additional scratching to the finish or the floor itself.

 The seven typical maintenance activities are:

Neutral Clean – Removes surface dirt without destroying any of the finish
Clean and Restore – Removes surface dirt without destroying the finish and leaves a film that prepares the surface for Burnishing
Buffing – Low Speed Gloss Restoring
Burnishing-  High Speed Gloss Restoring
Scrub – Cleans the floor by removing the top layer of finish and prepares the floor for additional costs of finish
Recoat – Applies top coat(s) of finish to floor after it has been scrubbed
Strip – Removes all finish and prepares floor to receive floor finish.

What is the difference between Buffing and Burnishing?

Often, these terms are used interchangeably but they represent two entirely different types of floor maintenance.  It is important to use them correctly because they combine different chemicals, equipment, and pads.

Buffing is low speed gloss restoration and uses a 175 rpm floor machine, a red floor pad, and spray buff.  A floor machine is the same piece of equipment that you might use to strip the floor or scrub the floor.  It goes side to side when you operate it.  Generally speaking a floor machine will have the motor in the middle of it.

Burnishing is high speed gloss restoration and uses both electric and propane operated machines, various color pads, and a restorer.  A burnisher operates at a much higher rpm than a floor machine.  They operate in a straight line rather than going side to side.  The pads vary in color depending upon the type of finish and amount of finish that is on the floor.

What do the colors of floor pads mean?

Floor pads have different colors because they do different things to the floor.  Generally speaking, the darker the pad is the more aggressive it will be.  An overview of pad colors is as follows: 

Black Pads are used for stripping,  There are two varieties, regular and high productivity.   The “hi-pro” are more aggressive and will remove finish more quickly.
Green and Blue Pads are used for scrubbing.  They will remove the top coat of finish and are used to prepare the floor for additional coats of finish.
Red Pads are used for daily cleaning of the floor and for applying spray buff with floor machines.
White Pads are used for mild scrubbing of a floor and to polish floors with poor bases of floor finish. 
Natural (Hair) Pads are used for burnishing floors with high speed equipment
Pink Pads are used for burnishing and are designed to more effective in the removal of scuff marks

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Chair Cleaning

Products                                  Equipment
Shampoo                                  Wet/Dry Vacuum
Spotting Kit                             Spotting Brush
                                                     Air Blower

1. Vacuum chair/upholstry thoroughly
2. If using gallon shampoo mix per instruction and use spray bottle to apply
3. Test inconspicuous area for shampoo effect on fabric     
4. Apply shampoo to fabric.   Be careful to not over wet fabric.
5. Work Shampoo in with Brush
6. Use weighted terry towel or clean wiper on stained areas to help pull out the stain. This will also help in areas that were accidentally over wet with shampoo.
7. Use blower to increase air movement and help speed drying
8. Vacuum chair after shampoo has dried thoroughly.

****USE ENCAPSULATING SHAMPOO TO PREVENT RESOILING.  ENCAPSULATING SHAMPOO DRIES AS A CRYSTAL AND CAN BE REMOVED EASILY BY VACUUMING.  OTHER SHAMPOOS CAN DRY STICKY WHICH ADDS TO THE RESOILING PROBLEM

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply

RESTROOM CLEANING

 Products                                             Equipment
Big Disinfectant                                 Bucket/Wringer & Pail
Citroxy                                                24oz Looped Green wet mop
Nilium Deodorant/Enzyme        24″ Dust Mop
Exam Gloves                                     Angle Broom & Lobby dust pan
Hand Soap & Deodorant              Wet Floor Signs
Liners                                                  Sponge/Scrubbee
Toilet Tissue & Towels                  Bowl Brush
Glass Cleaner                                    Microfiber Towels & Mops

1. Assemble all products and materials.  It is best if a cart or cleaning basket is prepared for restroom cleaning. 
2. Dilute cleaners in a pail and bucket/wringer 2-4oz per gallon.  Use the dilution station for best results dispensing chemicals
3. Prop door in open position and post wet floor signs or restroom-closed signs.
4. Spray sinks, counter, faucets, urinals, toilets, dispensers and fixtures with disinfectant.
5. Dust mop floor and place trash in service cart.
6. Empty all waste receptacles and place trash in service cart or larger trash bin. Damp wipe trash bins with disinfectant.
7. Check supply of paper towel, tissue, soap and deodorant and replenish as needed. Make sure all dispensers are in working order with enough supplies to last until next cleaning.
8. Mist glass cleaner on all mirrors and wipe dry with paper towel. Microfiber towels can be used to reduce chemical consumption and improve cleaning results
9. Damp wipe with sponge and pail full of disinfectant solution all sinks, counters, faucets including pipes and walls.  Let air dry.
10. Damp wipe all other toilet and urinal surfaces with disinfectant including top and bottom of the seat.
11. Damp wipe all wall partitions with sponge and pail of disinfectant solution.
12. Detail areas with glass cleaner as required.
13. Damp mop floor with disinfectant solution (For very dirty floors you may need to pre-clean with citrus degreaser at 8oz per gallon first then disinfect as described) starting from rear of restroom and working towards the exit.  If the solution in the bucket turns cloudy change the solution it the bucket. Extra dirty restrooms may require more extensive cleaning measures using a cylindrical floor machine.
14. If using micro fiber mops, wring out a mop and drop on floor.  pick up mop with flat mop holder and handle and start in a figure eight pattern on the farthest area away from the door.  Depending on the dirt load you may need to use two flat mops or you can spray solution on the floor to rewet the mop and continue cleaning.  Always mop in a figure eight in one direction.
15. If there is persistant urine odor problem in the restroom mist Urine BioEnzyme cleaner on the trouble spots under urinals while the floor is still damp.
16. Damp wipe the door, knob, handle and kick plate with disinfectant. Allow to air dry.

Productivity                    4 stalls     30min

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply

SPILL CLEAN UP

Spill Kits

CLEAN UP SPILLS QUICKLY!  The store should have a Nilogel spill kit ready to combat spills.  The kit should include Nilogel, a broom and a lobby dustpan.  Sprinkle the Nilogel on the spill and brush it in with the broom.  In seconds the spill is absorbed and can be swept away in the lobby dustpan.  A little goes a long way! 

BLOOD OR BODILY FLUID SPILLS

1. Put on disposable gloves, mask and gown.
2. Apply Chlorinated Nilogel to the spill.  Pick up absorbed material with a spatula or scoop.
3. Disinfect surfaces with Quat solution.  Allow contact time of at least 10 minutes.
4. Bag contaminated cleaning and safety supplies. 
5. Disinfect cleaning tools using Quat and allow to air dry.
6. Remove gloves and wash hands.

Set Up                     30min
Productivity            4500 sq ft per hour

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply

RESTORATION             SEMI ANNUAL 1ST & 2ND FLOOR
                                            ANNUAL 3RD & UP
                                            MONTHLY INSPECTION

Products                                  Equipment
Extraction Cleaner               Tornado Vacuum CW30
TrafficSpotter                         Hot Water Extractor
Spotting Kit                             Floor Machine with solution tank
Protect-O                                 Carpet Brush for floor machine
Odor Counteract                   Pile Brush
Kraft paper                              50′ Extension cords
Furniture Tabs                       Pump Up Sprayer 
Carpet Shampoo
Defoamer 
Bonnet Cleaner
Carpet Bonnets

1. Review area and determine if shampooing and spotting is necessary
2. Remove moveable obstructions & set up caution signs
3. Vacuum carpet wall to wall
4. Apply Traffic spotter to traffic lanes with 3 gallon pump sprayer (hot water)
5. Spot carpet using spotting kit and guide
6. If traffic lanes are badly soiled shampoo with Floor machine.  Before starting spray shampoo on start area and work the machine side to side in a “Z” pattern.  Open solution tank and let shampoo solution drop on brush evenly as cleaning.
7. Fill extractor with 2oz/5gal solution of 2001 Extraction Cleaner. Add 1oz/gal of Nilium odor counteract to freshen the carpet and kill odors
8. Plug the extractor into an outlet farthest ahead of the direction of cleaning
9. Extract carpet with dual stroke method. Open trigger on the way up and vacuum on the return stroke.  Heavy soiled areas may need a second pass.  Be careful not to over wet the carpet.  The extraction of the water is the key to producing a cleaner carpet.  It is important to remove as much water as possible apply adequate pressure on the wand to produce maximum suction on the carpet.
10. Add defoamer to extractor as necessary.  The best way to add defoamer is to vacuum in through the extractor hose out of a cup. 
11. Return moveable obstructions
12. Place furniture tabs under metal furniture legs to prevent rust stains
13. Roll out Kraft paper on walking paths if area may not be completely dry before opening to pedestrian traffic
14. After completely dry pile brush to restore the carpet nap
15. If the carpet resoils due to wicking then bonnet clean the carpet.  Use the same method as step 6 but put a carpet bonnet on the floor machine vs using a brush.  This will clean the top fibers of the carpet that were resoiled as the carpet dried.
16. While the carpet is still dame apply carpet protectant with a pump up sprayer

Productivity    Shampooing            1000sq ft/hour
                               Extraction               1000sq ft/hour

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply

INTERIM CLEANING        MONTHLY HI TRAFFIC
                                                           ELSEWHERE EVERY OTHER MONTH

Products                                  Equipment
Dri-Way                                   Tornado Vacuum CW30
Spotting Kit                            Dri-Way Jr. Dual Brush
                                                    Pile Brush
                                                    Spotting Brush

1. Remove moveable obstructions for wall-to-wall vacuuming
2. Pick up large debris
3. Sprinkle generously Dri-Way compound on traffic lanes
4. Work Dri-Way compound into the carpet with Dri-Way Jr. Dual Brush
5. Let stand until dry to the touch. This allows for maximum soil absorption.
6. Pile Brush traffic lanes removing Dri-Way compound and imbedded soil. Always brush opposite to traffic pattern.
7. Vacuum wall to wall with Tornado Carpet Keeper. Do not be concerned; if some Dri-Way compound is left in the carpet, it acts to retard soil.
8. Identify spots refer to spotting guide for removal products
9. Apply spotter and work in to center of spot with brush
10. Allow 10 minutes for spotter to work
11. Rinse spot with Tornado Pro Spot Extractor
12. If spot persist, apply clean/dry terry towel and weight to pull out spot

Productivity    Pile Brush               2,000sq ft/hour
                              Dri-Way                  3,000sq ft/hour

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Carpet Care Daily Maintenance

Products                                  Equipment

Nilofresh                                 Tornado Carpet Keeper
Spotters                                   Tornado Pro Spot Extractor
Spotting Kit                            Spotting Brush
                                                    Back Pak Vacuum (optional)

1. Set caution signs
2. Pick up large debris
3. Plug vacuum in central location
4. Spread carpet freshener (Nilofresh) sparsely on carpet
5. Vacuum traffic areas using a two pass method
6. Vacuum wall to wall if using back pack vacuum
7. Identify spots refer to spotting guide for removal products
8. Apply spotter and work in to center of spot with brush
9. Allow 10 minutes for spotter to work
10. Rinse spot with Tornado Pro Spot Extractor
11. If spot persist, apply clean/dry terry towel and weight to pull out spot
12. Clean equipment

 Productivity vacuuming          3,000sq ft/hour

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply

SOIL & SOIL PREVENTION

Most soil that accumulates on carpet consists of sand and dry particulate matter.  This type is often gritty and abrasive.  They contribute to wearing of a carpet by physically cutting and scratching the individual carpet fibers.  It is estimated that 79% of the soil in most carpet is dry particulate matter brought into the building on the soles of shoes.

Due to gravity this soil is generally found in the lower third of the yarns and requires brush/agitator action to be removed effectively.  Large soil particles will be retained by the carpets tangled fibers. These fibers are created during the manufacturing process of carpet.  The smaller dirt particles are retained by a few different physical properties or forces;

a)    Cracks/crevices engineered into the fiber surface will act as a trap for some soils.
b)   Some will be adhered by oily residues that are present on the fiber/yarn surface.
c)    The smallest particles will be attached by electro-static attraction.

“SOILS ARE REMOVED MOST EASILY WHEN THEY ARE DRY”

The most important step and the most often overlooked since the advent of extraction cleaning is dry soil particle removal. This should always be the first step in any carpet cleaning process.  These particulate and fibrous soils are insoluble in nature and are best removed using a mechanical process (vacuuming or pile brushing).

SOIL PREVENTION

1     Sweep parking lots, outdoor entrances regularly
2     Clean HVAC filters on schedule
3     Install adequate walk off matting (see matting)
4     Vacuum with quality dual filtration vacuums 
        (Eureka Sanitaire emits 20% of vacuumed particles)

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JANITORIAL SUPPLIES MICHIGAN – AMERISOURCE INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY

STRIP JOB    ANNUAL OR IF WELL MAINTAINED EVERY OTHER YEAR

Products                                  Equipment

Formula X                               Autoscrubber w/stripping brush
Sta-Brite                                   Propane Strip Machine
Vinegar/Neutralizer           Propane Burnisher
Neutral Cleaner                     Mop & Bucket     
Black Pads                               Floor Squeegee
                                                    Dust Mop
                                                    Flat Finish Mop
                                                    Doodle bug & pads or swivel brush
                                                    Scrapper short and long handle                                              

1. Rope off area to be stripped and put out wet floor signs, remove obstructions
2. Sweep floor with an untreated dust mop and scrape gum and Labels off floar
3. Fill scrubber w/cold water & Neutral Cleaner 1oz/gallon
4. Dilute Stripper  1 gallon to 8 gallons of water. For heavier build up dilute 1 gallon to 6 gallons of water.
5. Liberally apply Stripper solution to floor with mop and allow to dwell on floor 10 minutes. Keep the floor wet by moving your mop over the surface occasionally, wetted from mop bucket of stripper. This prevents drying and will aid in breaking the layers of coating down.
6. While Stripper is working begin doodlebugging the edges, use blade If necessary . (Do not short cut this impoltant step!)
7. With attached nylogrit brush, begin working the floor with your scrubber. Go slowly. This will allow the machine and chemical to work with you. Go over the area until all the finish is stripped from floor.
8. Squeegee edges, funneling crud toward center of aisle for easier pick up.
9. Pick up solution with autoscrubber or wet dry vacuum. Your scrubber or bucket should already be filled with a solution of Neutral Cleaner 1 ounce per gallon cold water.
10. On second pass turn on solution and vacuum up stripper residue. This will help neutralize the floor and ready it for your base coat or seal.
11. Mop edges and scrubber trails. Use a mop & bucket on any areas the Scrubber cannot reach. This bucket should contain Neutral Cleaner diluted @ 1 ounce per gallon of cold water.
12. Rinse floor TWICE with mop and bucket containing cold water or neutralizer solution only. Change water as it starts to discolor (turning tan or gray).
13. Allow floor to dry completely, and then check for any residue. Your floor should have a chalky appearance. If any residue is found, or if in doubt, rinse again with a clean solution of Pearl Neutralizer , 2 oz per gallon. Having the floor neutral is important to prevent floor finish adhesion problems and other issues like fish eyes. 
14. With a clean, rinsed Flat Finish Mop (18″ or 24″), apply 3 coats of Finish. Pour finish in lines on the floor and spread out with mop. Apply first coat up to edge. For Terrazzo & concrete floors apply Eclipse Hard Floor Sealer as first coat (must rinse flat mop before applying finish coats). The second coat, stay out from edge 6-8 inches. The third coat should be applied out to the edges.
     Allow 15-30 minutes of drying time per coat. Recoating too soon may cause streaking! You can test the floor by dragging your fingers across the floor.  If it is tacky, it is too soon to recoat. Only apply a maximum of 3 coats of finish per day.
15. Maximum shine occurs after 6 coats of finish.  It is important to aplly a minimum of 5 coats of finish in high traffic areas to give adequate base for scrub and recoat maintenance.  If there is too little finish on the floor you may have to strip and recoat more often.  It is more effective to extend the strip cycle as long as possible.
16. Time allowing, burnish with a White pad. If not, the next available shift, clean floor and burnish. Always walk slower with bumisher on fresh finish! The coating needs the additional heat for enhanced initial curing!
17. Dust mop
18. Remove signs and return moveable obstructions
19. Clean equipment & tools.  Finish mop is not disposable rinse with soap and water and hang to dry.

 Set up & Clean Up          60-90min
Productivity                    140 man min/1000sq ft
Staffing                               3

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Janitorial Supplies Michigan – Amerisource Industrial Supply 

SCRUB & RECOAT     EVERY THREE MONTHS
                                                OTHER AREAS AS NEEDED

Products                                  Equipment
Dust mop treatment           Autoscrubber
Neutral Cleaner                    Propane Burnisher
Floor Finish                           Pad Centers/Steel wool
White Pads                             Vacuum Cleaner
Blue/Green Pads                 Mop & Bucket
                                                   Flat Finish Mop
                                                   Dust Mop
                                                   Scrapper

1. Tape off area to be recoated
2. Pick up mats and moveable obstructions
3. Dust mop floor, removing, with blade/scraper, gum and labels from floor.
4. Fill autoscrubber with Neutral Cleaner (2oz/gal)
   For heavy, greasy build up, or dirty floor use Degreaser vs neutral cleaner, 2-4 ounces per gallon of cold water.
5. Attach Blue Scrub pad to your autoscrubber
   DOUBLE SCRUB: Two/2 pass method to deep clean the floor.
   On first pass: Apply solution (through scrubber) only, pad down. Do not use vacuum, squeegee up. Let the solution set and “work”on the floor for 5 minutes. While waiting, start detailing edges & black marks. On second pass: Drop squeegee, pad down, vacuum up solution.
6. In areas where your autoscrubber cannot reach:
   Apply Neutral Cleaner solution with mop/bucket and allow to set for 5 minutes. Scrub floor with single disk machine and an attached blue scrub pad. If no single disk machine is available, doodlebug the area and rinse floor w/mop and bucket. Rinse floor 2 times to ensure cleanliness.  You can use a squeegee to pull solution to an area that your scrubber or wet dry vacuum can pick up.
7. Rinse the floor and detail mop edges and scrubber trails with mop/bucket using cold water only. Test the floor if it is chalky or has residue rinse again with cold water.
    At this point, you may want to take time to burnish your floor (White Pad) before recoating. This serves to better dry your floor and bring up Additional shine that will really come through after your  recoat job! And don’t forget…dust mop after bumishing.
8. Allow floor to completely dry. Apply two coats of Floor Finish Stay 6-8 inches away from edges. Allow 20-30 minutes dry time per coat.
9. Burnish with white Pad.
10. Dust mop.
11. Replace mats & obstructions, remove signs and tape
12. Clean up Equipment

Set up & Clean up           45min
Productivity                    80 man min/1000sq ft
Staff                                      2

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